Field Notes from Abisko, Swedish Lapland

I try out the tours we feature on Kodama Travel whenever I can. This time, I journeyed to the Arctic Circle - my destination was the small Swedish town of Abisko.

Abisko can be reached from Stockholm by overnight train, which departs at 6:08 PM and arrives around 10:30 AM. The train offers private compartments for 2-3 people or 4-6 people and is relatively comfortable.

Abisko was crowned by the Lonely Planet as the best place to see the Northern Lights, thanks to its unique microclimate, known as the "Blue Hole." Strong winds often ensure clear skies, increasing the likelihood of a successful aurora chase. In December, the sun in Abisko never rises above the horizon, but there are still about four hours of daylight each day. This year, Abisko has been unseasonably warm—at -10°C instead of the usual -20°C—and it has received more snowfall than usual.

December is not a very popular time for locals to visit Abisko, as many prefer to come later in the season to ski. However, due to its reputation as a Northern Lights destination, December is still a busy time for this small Arctic town. We participated in three activities, all guided by non-Swedes. Many locals prefer year-round jobs over seasonal work. Therefore, much of the tourism workforce here comes from other countries.

Snowmobiling

Kodama’s snowmobile partner only runs small group tours led by experts with deep knowledge of the surrounding mountains. You’ll start by practising your skills in a parking lot before driving on relatively flat ground. From there, the route takes you up into the mountains, with some twists and turns along the way. At each section, your guide will check on you and offer tips for the next stage, including how to adjust your speed and angle. Afterwards, it’s time to enjoy a break with some warm lingonberry juice atop the snow-capped mountains, taking in the stunning views of Abisko National Park. On your way down, you’ll also get a chance to practice some fun speed driving on the frozen lake’s flat surface if the condition allows. (see my video of the ride on TikTok. Please note that a valid driver’s license from your home country is required to participate).

Snowshoe Hiking in Abisko National Park

Our French guide described himself as a lover of the outdoors and a hippie. We trekked through the birch forest, tracking wildlife and learning about the forest's flora and fauna. It was a night of full moon, and it was magical to hike in the forest under the bright moonlight. It reminded me of the theme song from Princess Mononoke (the film that depicted Kodama, the tree spirits): “When the sun has gone I see you/ Beautiful and haunting but cold…All of your sorrow, grief, and pain/ Locked away in the forest of the night/ Your secret heart belongs to the world/ Of the things that sigh in the dark/ Of the things that cry in the dark”. You can check out the original Japanese version of the song here.

Northern Lights & Nacreous Clouds

Unfortunately, we didn’t experience the famed Blue Hole or see the Northern Lights. The skies were overcast during our entire stay. Two days after we left, I saw the aurora over a clear blue Abisko sky on the live cam. However, we were lucky to witness the Mother of Pearl Cloud (nacreous clouds), a phenomenon rarer in Abisko than the Northern Lights. These clouds form when the temperature in the stratosphere drops below -78°C (−108°F) and when the sun is positioned 1–6 degrees below the horizon. Their iridescent colours are created by the interaction of sunlight with ice particles in the stratosphere.

Travellers to Abisko might notice that the local supermarket is stocked with candies. LOTs of them. This is because Norway imposes additional taxes on sweets, so many Norwegians living near the border drive here on weekends to stock up.

At Kodama, we have always prided ourselves on promoting wildlife conservation and animal welfare. In recent years, the surge of tourism in Nordic countries has raised concerns about the welfare of dogs used in sledding tours. Many huskies are overworked, with long hours and heavy loads, thus lacking rest during and in between tours. For this reason, we did not participate in dog sledding, nor do we feature such activities on our platform. For many locals, dogs are considered part of the family, but we observed large groups of tourists waiting to board sledges, sometimes for very long journeys. Due to the lack of credible verification in this field, we have decided not to feature these tours until we can independently and confidently verify the welfare of the dogs involved.

If you are also planning a trip to the Swedish Lapland, you can check out our nature-focused Sweden tours here.